Ring Around The Choker Collar

Lanvin choker in silver brushed metal, $1,335 at net-a-porter.com.

The "Style" section of this weekend's New York Times features a new necklace trend for the spring 2012 season: the choker collar. Featuring a selection of expensive looks in materials ranging from brass to gunmetal to druse (a calcium crystal...I had to look it up too), they look nice when you're feeling a little Kunta Kinte.

Silver neck cuff in white brass, $1,500 at Michael Kors.

But one must be careful...this look is not for everyone.  A girl must be tall and slender with an Olive Oyl neck in order to wear them, or you can wind up channeling the Ben-Hur rowing team.

Eddie Borgo silver-plated spider choker with a hand-dyed feather, $815 at Bergdorf Goodman.

Harry Winston, China and Diamonds...Discuss

1960 photo of Harry and his jewelry box.

Harry Winston, the venerable jewelry house to celebrities and the wealthy, sees solid opportunities in China. Realizing that's where new and young (emphasis on young...they will be around longer to buy) wealth is located, Winston has concentrated its efforts and plans to open at least 10 new stores in the next 5 years. The firm is looking at Russia and Dubai as well, but China is really its target market.

Chief Executive, Frederic de Narp said, "nothing is too big, nothing is too beautiful, and nothing is too expensive for the Chinese today. They are on a quest for true luxury." Meanwhile, according to de Narp, luxury is "rebounding sharply" in the lowly United States.

Harry Winston, Inc. expects sales growth of 15% in new markets in the next five years.

  

In 1958 Winston donated the Hope Diamond to the Smithsonian as a "gift to the American people." The famous blue diamond was set by Cartier in 1910.  In November of 2010, the Hope Diamond was temporarily remounted in a somewhat contemporary setting (see below) meant to commemorate 50 years on display at the Natural History Museum.  The new setting is called "Embracing Hope" and was chosen from three potential designs. Shortly, the Hope Diamond will return to its original Cartier setting (see above), a circle of 16 white diamonds attached to a diamond necklace.

This new setting for the Hope Diamond, called "Embracing Hope," was chosen from three potential designs and is on display for a little while longer at the Smithsonian Institution. Harry Winston, Inc. will then send it on a world tour, replacing the Hope with another blue stone at its center.  The plan is to then offer it for sale and donate the proceeds back to the Smithsonian.  

Founded in 1932, Harry Winston became immortalized in 1953 when Marilyn Monroe called out his  name in the "Diamonds Are a Girl's Best Friend" song she sang in the movie, Gentlemen Prefer Blondes. Winston's legacy was further celebrated in 1958 when he donated the Hope Diamond to the Smithsonian Institution. Actually, at the time, Winston had no prospective buyers for the ill-fated stone, believed to put some serious maloik on the owner.

In this photo, Harry Winston holds some of his famous gems in the palm of his hand. The 125.35 carat emerald cut "Jonker" diamond is center. Just under the Jonker is the 94.80 carat pear shaped Star of the East diamond. The 45.52 carat blue Hope diamond rests between his index and middle finger. The 337.10 carat Sapphire of Catherine the Great is next to his thumb, and the 70.21 carat Idol's Eye diamond is just above the Jonker. A matched pair of pear shaped diamonds and a larger ruby are also shown.

  

"The Lesotho" – The original rough diamond – over 601-carats uncut – was unearthed in 1967 by a woman in the South African kingdom of Lesotho. Fearing for her life, the woman fled on foot for four days and nights to sell the incredible stone under government protection. Purchased by Harry Winston, the cleaving of the Lesotho was broadcast live on television in 1968, resulting in 18 separate gems. The largest, "Lesotho One," is an exquisite 71.73-carat flawless emerald cut diamond. Aristotle Onassis purchased the 40.42-carat "Lesotho Three" for Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis’ engagement ring.

Will You Still Love Me, When I'm.........Married AGAIN???

Paul Mc Cartney married trucking heiress, Nancy Shevell today in London.  What would possess him to do that?  Didn't he learn the last time?  The notoriously cheap Beatle, who divorced the nasty Heather Mills in 2008 for $50 million, has been called "stingy" even by his own daughter, famed clothing designer, Stella Mc Cartney.  With a one page pre-nup that basically says she can't have any of the money promised to Beatrice, his daughter with Mills, he's banking on that fact that Shevell won't want any of his money because she has plenty of her own.  

Looking exactly like the aged version my 1964 issue of "Mad Magazine" promised he would on the back page tri-fold puzzle, he married Shevell in the same place where thousands of fans thronged and mourned his marriage to Linda Eastman in March 1969.  A very small ceremony which included Ringo Starr and Shevell's second cousin, Barbara Walters, was held on what should have been John Lennon's 71st birthday (for the love of God has it been that long?).  Wealthy in her own right, Shevell actually told Mc Cartney she had her own diamonds and didn't need any from him.
 

Nonetheless, Mc Cartney fested Shevell with a $650,000 vintage Cartier diamond, purchased from jeweler Neil Lane.  It is a flawless, round, five carat plus stone from the art deco period.  The side shank of the ring accented with black onyx.

Rolex Signs Tiger Woods-A Partnership For A New Challenge

I'm Baaaack............sort of.

In a move that indicates Tiger Woods might not have to live in the basement much longer, luxury watchmaker, Rolex, has just signed him to a "long standing" (some say five years) endorsement deal. In a statement on their website, Rolex states they are "paying tribute to the exceptional stature of Tiger Woods and the leading role he plays in forging the sport's global appeal. It also constitutes a joint commitment to the future." Welcome to the Rolex Rehab Center.

Rolex is convinced Tiger has many years ahead of him to scratch and climb back to number one (he's currently 51st in World Golf Rankings), and "the brand is committed to accompanying him in his new challenges," which means they will be hanging on him like a fly on poop to make sure he keeps his pants on. I'm not sure if this move makes Tiger look better, or makes Rolex look worse?

Back To School With My Sister in Washington, DC

Smithsonian Institution National Museum of Natural History

My sister (Queen Doll) and I recently attended a lecture in Washington, DC sponsored by the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History: "Shaping Raw Stones Into Radiant Gems." Inside this museum, the Harry Winston Gallery houses the Hope Diamond and many other incredible pieces of jewelry so that we peons can see what real jewelry used to look like.

Our speaker, Martin D. Fuller, GG (GIA), CSM, ASA, told us about talented stone artists who are creating art using ancient carving methods, as well as those who are developing new and innovative techniques shaping and cutting gems like aquamarines, pearls, and tourmalines.

My sister and I sat patiently waiting for the Hope Diamond-Marie Antoinette-Marjorie Merriweather Post-Janet Annenberg Hooker "jewelry hall of fame" part of the presentation to begin, but we soon realized this wasn't a jewelry lecture at all as we looked around and saw the number of fanny packs and Birkenstock's in the room. We were at a modern day prospectors convention: very passionate people, like trekkies, only they wear rocks on their fingers and ears.

Actually, we learned a lot. In particular: two amazing stone carving artists who use gemstones as their medium. Check out Michael Dyber, who carves aquamarines, ametrines, citrines and more, on the front as well as the back of the stones, and creates extra terrestrial design elements that are unusual and unique. He turns these stones into jewelry, or sometimes, with large stones, he creates "Palm  Sculptures" like the two seen here:

287.68 carat Bolivian ametrine

"Free Form", 208.45 carat Brazilian golden beryl.

And don't miss Helen Serras-Herman, who is helping to revive the ancient art of glyptography, the art or process of carving stones, including cameos and intaglios. Her faces, like "Venus" and "Leonardo Da Vinci," can take months of preparation and work to complete. The results are unbelievable.

"Venus", a 256 carat rutillated quartz.

"Portrait of Leonardo Da Vinci", a 328 carat smoky quartz.

"Portrait of Queen Sikirit of Thailand", a 574.7 carat aquamarine.

Elizabeth Taylor - The Christie's Auction Details

Now that you all have an idea about which of Elizabeth Taylor's jewels you are bidding on, here are some details.

First, it's Christie's that is holding the auction, not Sotheby's. Since they are the only two auction houses that really matter, and both auction important gems of the world, they seem to be interchangeable in terms of these important events.

In an attempt to cut 'em off at the pass, this October, Sotheby's in Hong Kong, will include in their Magnificent Jewels event, the auction of the 9.27 carat Fancy Vivid Pink Golconda diamond which carries a pre-auction estimate of $13 million - $19 million dollars.  The Golconda mine in India is known for producing many of the worlds most valuable stones, many of which were owned by the ancient emperors of India and Iran.  Since it no longer is mined, there are only a few of their legendary diamonds left in circulation.

This is one piece of jewelry Liz never owned.

Christie's started a world wide tour of Elizabeth Taylor's famous gems in Moscow on September 15th and September 16th, and it just arrived in London. For a taste of what's to come, view this link to see the opening: Liz in London. In October and November it continues through Los Angeles, Dubai, Geneva, Paris and Hong Kong. It finally arrives in New York on December 3 and remains on display through December 12 at the Christie's Gallery, 20 Rockefeller Plaza, New York. Tickets are required ($30 - available at the end of October)  and the catalogues are available in varying configurations at prices that range from $20 for the Souvenir Publication to $300 for the complete set. If you are really interested in the auction events, I suggest you set up an account at Christie's so you can get the details as they emerge.

This is not Elizabeth Taylor.

So choose the day you're going to New York and make sure to book your hotel now. What a fun time to be in New York City. The holiday decorations will be up and the stores will be stocked so you can get some serious shopping done. But don't forget to bring your museum armour so you can be ready to do serious battle because the big crowds in this type of exhibition bring out the worst in people. Be prepared to inhale other people's bad breath, B.O., and hair smell; navigate around the bloaty and farty people pushing you out of line while squirreling their way into your 6" personal space; and beware of the ubiquitous foreign tourists with camera equipment that would put a cinematographer to shame. Be comfortable with the fact you will never see these people again as you move in front of them or gently push them out of the line if they take too long to get their shot. Because you are there to see, for probably the only time in your life, a display of some of the most beautiful and important jewels you will ever see together in one place. It will be worth it.

Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton-Can't Live With Him, Can't Live Without Him

I liked them best old, drunk and nasty.

We're all familiar with the tempestuous marriages of Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton so I won't bore you with their legendary stories.  Sigh...we just don't hear those kinds of tales about today's celebrities. We're much more interested in news of recent plastic surgery, like Meg Ryan's jaw dropping corrective face lift...it's about time she noticed how weird she looked.  Or how scary skinny Kelly Ripa (who looks like she can't wait to throw up in the nearest toilet so she can get rid of that forkful of food she is allowing herself  just because she's being photographed) is.

Meg Ryan as the Joker on the left.  Today, post Joker surgery.

Gag...Ripa looks like a little boy but eats like an anorexic.

Taylor and Burton adored, hated, adored and hated each other. I believe they shared a unique passion for love and life, however, when you have sombrero sized egos, only one can fit in a room. Between both marriages, Burton bejeweled Taylor with some of the most important gems in the world...ever. There are so many...here are the best of them.

The Grand Duchess Vladimir suite started off with the amazing emerald and diamond brooch Liz is wearing.  Burton and Taylor met in the early 60's on the set of Cleopatra. Their love affair caused so much gossip back then you would have thought they were filming porn.  As it was, Liz only showed a little cleavage in the movie. 

Burton built upon the Bulgari Grand Duchess Vladimir Suite in the early 60's when he added this magnificent Bulgari emerald and diamond necklace. Then, he went jewelry crazy.  The necklace pre-auction estimate: $1,000,000-$1,500,000; the pendant: $500,000-$700,000; the ring: $600,000-$800,000; and the earrings: $150,000-$200,000.

 

Burton said the only Italian word Liz new was "Bulgari".  I know a few curse words.

What happens to us?

Tiffany's, Jean Schlumberger, "Night of the Iguana" brooch, 1964.  Estimated pre-auction value $200,00-$300,000.

The Taylor-Burton Diamond, a 69.42 carat, D-IF, pear shaped stone, was purchased by Burton in 1967 from Cartier for $1.1 million.  The stone was quickly re-set into the more frequently seen cleavage necklace Liz dangled between her bubbies, because even Liz thought it was too big to wear as a ring.  In 1978, Taylor sold the stone for $3,000,000, two years after the end of her second marriage to Burton, in part to help fund a school in Botswanna (and is said to have later regretted selling it).  Today, the stone is reported to be in the hands of Lebanese diamond dealer, Robert Mouawad, who paid in the neighborhood of $5,000,000 for it and then had the stone re-cut to a more manageable 68.09 carats. This will not be in the Christie's auction.

The Krupp Diamond (now known as the Elizabeth Taylor Diamond), 33.19 carats, D- VS1, a gift from Burton in 1968 (purchase price then, $305,000).  Previously owned by Nazi sympathizer, Alfried Krupp, Taylor thought it funny a little Jewish girl like her wound up with the diamond.  She wore it almost every day of her life.  Estimated pre-auction value of $2,500,000-$3,500,000.

A close-up of "this old thang".

La Peregrina pearl.  Burton gave Taylor this historical bird's egg pearl in 1961.  It was once owned by Queen Mary I.  Extra necklace sparkly parts courtesy of Cartier.  Estimated pre-auction value of $2,000,000-$3,000,000.

The "Granny Suite".  Burton gave this Van Cleef and Arpels suite to Taylor in honor of her first grandchild at age 39, born in 1971.  Estimated pre-auction value of the necklace is $120,000-$180,000.

Van Cleef and Arpels "Granny" earrings.  Estimated pre-auction value of $25,000-$35,000.

The main component of the Bulgari sautoir is a 52.72 carat sugarloaf Burmese sapphire.  Burton gave this to Taylor in 1972 for her 40th birthday. 

Bulgari sapphire and diamond ring was added later.  Pre-auction value of $600,000.

The Taj Mahal diamond circa 1627.  This historically significant diamond was once owned by the man who built it.  Another outstanding gift given to Taylor by Burton for her 40th birthday in 1972.  Estimated pre-auction value of $300,000-$500,000

It will be a once in a lifetime opportunity for those lucky enough to view Taylor's jewel collection while on tour this fall.  The proceeds of the sale, some of which will benefit the Elizabeth Taylor AIDS Foundation, will leave a legacy for generations to come. Initial estimates of her collection are around $30,000,000 but experts believe it will be triple that, or more. I just can't believe her children, especially her daughters, are not lusting after at least one of the important gems in her collection - just to remember her by.