Field Trip! Part I - Transformation at Van Cleef & Arpels Exhibit at the Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum

My sister and I ventured to NYC the other day to check out, Set in Style: The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels, exhibit at the Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum. Organized by Sarah Coffin, curator and head of the Product Design and Decorative Arts Department, the exhibition opened February 18, 2011, and runs through July 4, 2011.  Organized by six themes, Innovation, Transformation, Nature as Inspiration, Personalities, Exoticism, and Fashion, more than 300 pieces were on display, each piece better than the next.  The next few blogs will cover an amazing piece of jewelry from each category.

The piece that prompted our sojourn was probably one of the first “push presents” ever given, the Walska Brooch.  A “push present” is the gift a man gives a woman after he watches her do whatever it takes (short of standing up in those frigging stirrups) to deliver their new sprout.  He realizes some type of compensation must be in order because he can't believe what he just witnessed: "I thought it was a bowling ball with hair - but it was actually the baby!" Trusted advisers tell him that jewelry calms her central nervous system so he begins to search for the perfect gift.

I really thought push presents were a newer trend but this gift was given in 1971 so it’s not as new as I thought.  After seeing this Van Cleef & Arpels masterpiece, one can only surmise this man was very impressed with his wife’s birthing powers.  Luckily, for that extremely wealthy man who pondered the question way back in 1971, “What could I possibly give my wife when this baby finally comes out," he found the Walska diamond available and requested VC&A to create something beautiful and appropriate for the occasion of his first child’s birth.

Keep in mind it’s the thought that counts when your husband presents his gift to you because it would be almost impossible to top this little thing that VC&A came up with:

This piece features a 95-carat yellow diamond suspended from the bird’s beak and meant to depict the newborn bundle. Transformations. Photo by Smithsonian Cooper-Hewitt Museum.

Looking like it could weigh about as much as a newborn, the Walska brooch is a sapphire, diamond, and emerald studded brooch in the form of a stork carrying the little bundle of joy.  The brooch comes apart to make a pin, earrings and pendant, but it's the "little bundle of joy" that is the star of this show.  It’s the original Walska diamond, a 95 carat briolette yellow diamond previously owned by Ganna Walska (1887-1984).

Walska was an opera singing, marriage addicted, guru seeking, garden designer.  The diamond industry refers to her stone as the “great unknown” as little history is available.  Much more is known about Lotusland, a 37 acre estate and botanical garden in California Ms. Walska purchased in 1941 (the same year she purchased the yellow diamond) and dedicated the remaining years of her life to.  She spent the next 43 years creating and expanding Lotusland, which today is a non-profit botanical garden of rare plants.  The Lotusland website reports, “So determined was she to finish the work she had begun that in the 1970’s she auctioned off some of her jewelry in order to finance her final creation—the cycad garden," so it’s certainly plausible she sold the diamond to keep the Santa Barbara imaganerium running and perhaps that's how it became available to VC&A.  Both the diamond and Lotusland are masterpieces that live on today….one gem traded for another.

Paula Deen’s Diamonds

Hey Y’all... I’m Pawla Deen and I’m preparin' Pawla’s Breaded and Fried Stick of Butter for y’all today but I can’t lift mah hands because mah dahmonds are so big.  But ah need to lift mah hands so ah cin git out the meatloaf that’s still stuck in the prongs from yesterday…wait, hold on...I'm just gonna use mah teeth to git these last hunks out.  Mah husband tells me to never take mah rings off because he’s afraid ah might lose them - so ah don’t.  Look y'all...I cin see the ground beef through the top of mah dahmonds!

Actual stick of breaded and fried butter.

Seriously, I really like Paula Deen.  Her Chocolate Bread Pudding recipe is the best I’ve ever made and it always turns out great.  But it’s her diamond rings that I love the most.  There is little information out there other than she was robbed of about $100,000 in jewelry (not her diamonds, thankfully) back in 2010 by a skanky housekeeper.  In her husband, Michael Groover's book, My Delicious Life with Paula Deen, you will find a chapter he calls "Shopping for Paula."  He uses three jewelers and especially likes Levy Jewelers in Savannah, GA.  He also mentions A. & E. Jewelers and another jeweler, Michael Ross, in Mobile, AL.  He trusts each one and states that he can call any of them and ask, “What would Paula like,” and they will send something out to him on approval.  If she doesn’t like it, he can send it right back.  

However, I’m not sure I agree with him when he says, “Buy what you like (meaning he buys what he likes, not necessarily what Paula might like).  Unless a man has great taste in jewelry (and I’ve really only met a few over the years who were interested enough to pay that much attention, and they were usually weird and/or controlling), he is much better off shopping with his significant other and selecting something together, or looking in her jewelry box to see what she already has, or maybe calling his trusted selling professional in his favorite store…. another good reason to have that great salesperson who keeps a record of all your wife’s jewelry purchases.

Here is the only close up I could find of Paula’s huge diamond engagement ring.  Not sure of the carat weight but could be as much as 10 carats.

Rumor has it he designed those dahmond rings.  Lucky Pawla...he looks and shops like Santa Claus.

Cartier Pearls

LA PEREGRINA PEARL:  In Spanish, la peregrina means "the Pilgrim."  A naturally formed pearl, it is considered one of the most historically important pearls in the world.  Legend has it that in the 16th century, a slave in the Gulf of Panama discovered the pearl and exchanged it for his freedom. (I sure hope he made it out).  King Ferdinand V (1479-1516) made the pearl part of the Spanish Crown Jewels.  It was then passed to his successor, King Charles V (1516-1556).  King Phillip II of Spain gave the pearl to Queen Mary I (Mary Queen of Scots) in anticipation of their marriage in 1554 (there are many portraits of her wearing the pearl which is very cool when you think about it in current times).  It was also owned by Spanish royalty, the Bonapartes of France, and the British Marquis of Abercorn.

The pearl, almost 56 carats in weight, was hanging from a very beautiful tiny pearl and platinum chain necklace when Richard Burton purchased it in 1969 for Elizabeth Taylor. Three years later, Liz and Dick took La Peregrina, along with a copy of a painting of Mary Queen of Scots, to Cartier in New York with a request to have the pearl reset in a necklace similar in design to the one worn in the painting. The new necklace design is based on the necklace worn in the painting from the 16th century.   

Liz's Convincing Conversation to Dick...

Dick....guess what?  I've decided this thing is way way too small and it does not counterbalance my bubbies.  I can hardly stand to wear it.  I must redo the whole thing and make it as ostentatious as possible.  I think I'll copy Queen Mary's necklace from that painting we like.  You know Dick, remember we're British so we're almost like royalty and stuff.  Hell, I deserve it.

The painting of Queen Mary with PMS, by Flemish artist, Hans Eworth, which is believed to have inspired Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton.  It shows the monarch wearing the giant pearl known as La Peregrina.  What could Mary possibly be so pissed off at?  Is a pearl the size of a bird's egg too heavy around the neck?  Elizabeth Taylor will look slightly less pissed off when Richard Burton buys the pearl for her 400 years later.

Cartier's hand drawings of Taylor’s new necklace which will hold La Peregrina.  Based on the PMS'ing Queen Mary painting shown above.  

Le Peregrina on Cartier Necklace:  In 1969 Richard Burton gave the magnificent pearl to Elizabeth Taylor for Valentine's Day (hell, I only ever get a card).  Purchase Price:  $37,000.  Shortly after receiving it, Ms. Taylor temporarily lost it later finding it in her dog’s mouth (like my mother used to say, "Gem, you just have too much crap laying around").  Realizing an egg sized pearl on a chain was just not enough, Taylor asked Cartier to design a necklace to hold it.  The new necklace features a double strand of different sized pearls, with ruby and diamond stations interspersed throughout with La Peregrina attached as an elaborate pendant. The centerpiece of the pendant is a floral design consisting of a pear-shaped ruby surrounded by diamonds in a floral pattern. 

The final Cartier necklace which, of course, Liz could have worn anywhere - anytime.

MY MANSION FOR YOUR PEARLS:  In 1916, Cartier put a beautiful double-stranded, natural pearl necklace on tour around Europe, which eventually made its way to New York City.  This necklace was valued at $1.2 million and they were the first pearls to ever be priced over $1 million.  The pearls caught the attention of New York socialite, Maisie Plant, who was married to Morton Plant, the son of a railroad tycoon.  She fell in love with the pearls, however, her husband refused to buy them.  As the couple was planning to sell their mansion on 5^th Avenue and 52^nd St., Maisie decided to offer Cartier her mansion in exchange for the necklace (both were being offered at around $1,000,000) - plus $100.  Cartier accepted and had the mansion turned into their flagship New York store.  The mansion still remains the Cartier Headquarters of New York City and in 1970 was designated a NYC landmark.

She should have listened to Morton.  Maisie's pearls were sold at auction in 1957, a year after her death, for $170,000.  The current value of the Fifth Avenue mansion...priceless.  Silly girl... Maisie Plant.  I'm all about instant gratification but girl, you just did not think this thing all the way through.

Memorable Pearls - Gigantic Pearls

PEARL OF ALLAH:  The largest pearl on record is the Pearl of Allah, discovered in the Philippines in 1934.  It got its name due its resemblance to a turbaned man.  Measuring about 9.45 inches long and weighing 14 pounds, it has a sort of porcelain look to it that was caused by the interior of the giant clam (and I do mean giant) from which it was recovered. It is now valued at $40 million.  This pearl definitely creeps me out and looks a more like Boris Karloff from the Mummy...

Spooky resemblance........
 

ARCO-VALLEY PEARL:  The second largest pearl in the world is the the Arco-Valley pearl. It is a baroque, natural, saltwater blister pearl weighing 575 carats and dates back to the 11^th century. The Arco-Valley pearl is said to have been owned by several emperors and travelers including Marco Polo and Genghis Kahn. The Arco-Valley pearl has a nacreous effect rather than the porcelain effect of the Pearl of Allah. It is also not nearly as scary looking as the Pearl of Allah. Small holes can be found on the Arco-Valley pearl which suggest that it was once used in a tiara or a crown, which would have been really heavy considering how big the thing is. The Arco-Valley Pearl was unseen for many years until 2007 when the pearl was put up for auction in Abu Dhabi.  It was valued at $8 million, however it is not known  exactly the pearl was sold to but it is said to have a home somewhere in Europe.  It probably has it's own wing.

Very possibly the irritant used to form the Arco-Valley pearl.

This photo of the Arco-Valley pearl puts the pearl's size into perspective.  Next to the hand, you can see  how big the pearl really is.  Talk to the hand...

HOPE PEARL:  The Hope Pearl is an irregular pear-shaped pearl weighing approximately 450 carats and is still one of the largest pearls in the world.  It is two inches long and is four and half inches in diameter.  This pearl is so large it even has its own tiara - a crown of rubies, diamonds and emeralds.  The color at one end is white and the other is more of a bronze or green tint. It is considered baroque and currently resides in the Natural History Museum in London. Previously, it was owned by the former owner of the Hope Diamond, Henry Philip Hope. The audacity of one man owning the Hope Diamond AND the Hope Pearl - and both are in museums and not on a woman's finger or around her neck.   I could only hope it shows up in my jewelry box one day...

  

PEARLS! BIRTHSTONE FOR JUNE

Pearls are mysterious and misunderstood.  Of all fine jewelry I’ve sold over the years, people knew less about pearls than any other type of gemstone.  There are freshwater pearls, Akoya pearls, baroque pearls, Tahitian pearls, South Sea Pearls, pearls of wisdom and Pearl tampons….see how confusing it all is?  So, as a result, this is a super long post, however, there's a lot to the basics if you're going to be an informed pearl shopper.  If you don't have time, just buy Mikimoto.  Otherwise... 

When I started selling jewelry 20 years ago, I didn’t appreciate pearls.  I thought they were for old ladies, a little too classic for me.  However, the first time I gathered a 36” strand (opera length) of 9mm Mikimoto pearls in my hand I went blind for a minute, composed myself and became a convert.  Cool, white and luxurious, I wrapped them around my neck twice and clasped them.  Doubled like that, they looked substantial and contemporary – not like Margaret Dumont from the Marx Brother’s movies.  Plus, the white of the pearls brightened my face better than any of the concealers in my makeup barrel.  

For centuries, pearls were formed in nature when an irritant (a piece of sand or a bit of shell, for example) made its way inside the shell of a certain mollusk and, knowing the irritant is there (think: annoying spouse) the oyster starts to secrete (shrug really-like leave me alone already) thousands of layers of nacre covering the irritant, which ultimately forms the pearl.  See if you can find the pearl in the image (this is the only type of raw oyster I would eat – one with a big honking pearl stuck in it instead of a snot ball).  Before the beginning of the 20th century, the only means of obtaining pearls was by pearl diving or manually gathering very large numbers of pearl oysters (or pearl mussels) from the ocean floor (or lake, or river bottom), bringing them to the surface, opening them and harvesting the pearls (God, so much work).  A ton of oysters might produce only 3 or 4 quality pearls.  

1893, Koikichi Mikimoto, started farming pearls and produced the world's first cultured pearls.  This brought the dangerous business of pearl diving just about to an end.  His process of culturing pearls in oyster beds by manually implanting the irritant rather than allowing nature to take its course produces some of the most valuable pearls in the world.  

How to Buy Pearls – Important Things to Look For

Luster:  this is the sheen on the pearl caused by the layers of nacre.  Usually the more nacre the more luster, the more beautiful the pearl.  In my opinion, this is the first thing you look for and the most important factor when shopping for pearls.

Perfection:  the second most important element when evaluating pearls.  Blemishes or blebs are naturally found on pearls and are caused by the conditions present when they are forming.  They can be proof a pearl is real but the fewer blemishes the more valuable the pearl.  No one wants to wear pearls with goobers on them.  

Shape:  perfectly round pearls are rare and expensive; however, South Sea pearls can produce unusual shapes and are coveted as well. 

Color:  pearls are available in many colors based on the type of oyster that forms it.  The most popular Akoya (saltwater pearls) colors are white, cream and rose´, while gold and peacock green are popular South Sea colors.  Color may not be indicative of value but even and intense distribution of color is.  Choose the color that best compliments your complexion, not your industrial strength makeup.

Size:  Pearls are measured by millimeters in size starting with 3mm to 10mm for Akoya’s and 8mm to 20mm for South Sea’s.  Naturally, larger pearls are more expensive than smaller ones and as with all things...the bigger the better.  

Types of Pearls – The Technical Stuff But Important to Know the Difference

Akoya ~ produced in Japan’s Akoya oysters, they are the most popular saltwater pearls.  They grow from 3mm-10mm and come in white, cream, pink, light green, blue and silver.

Freshwater ~ produced mostly in the lakes and rivers of China, freshwater pearls are cultured in a mussel rather than an oyster and are often less expensive than Akoya’s or South Seas.  Small in size, as many as ten to fourteen freshwater pearls can be cultured in one mussel. Perfectly round freshwater pearls are extremely rare and they are most often found in unusual shapes. 

South Sea White ~ produced by the silver-lipped South Sea oyster.  They have a slight opalescent appearance which subtly changes in different light making them incredibly beautiful.  Usually available in sizes starting at 9mm, their shapes range from round, oval or teardrop to free-form baroque.

South Sea Golden ~ produced by the golden-lipped South Sea oyster. Their natural golden color is an unusual find and extremely rare.  Colors range from light champagne to a very rare, deep gold. This oyster can also produce richly luminescent white pearls, but the deeper golden colors are the most coveted of all pearls.  Golden South Sea’s usually start at 9mm in size and go up, with beautiful large round, oval, teardrop or baroque shapes.

Tahitian or Black South Sea ~ produced in black lipped oysters off the waters of Tahiti and Okanawa with sizes that range from 8mm-20mm.  Although not actually black, colors range from slate grey, silver and pistachio to peacock green and midnight black with overtones of green, rosé or blue. 

Conch Pearls ~ these natural pearls are among the rarest pearls in the world and are harvested from the Queen conch, a large sea snail with a heavy, lustrous shell that lives in the Caribbean and the Gulf of Mexico. The highest-quality Conch pearls are characterized by a unique design that gives the appearance of a fire burning on the surface.

Caring for Pearls 

Remember your pearls are organic little seeds of nature.  They don’t like acid, alkaline or extreme temperatures.  Be sure to keep them away from perfume, hairspray or makeup.  I always tell customers when wearing pearls, they should be the last thing you put on and the first thing you take off.  Do not put them on then decide to douse yourself in a tornado of Jo Malone.  Wipe them with a dry cotton cloth after wear (do not be tempted to use your husband’s tighty-whities - you can spring for a nice cloth) and store them separately in their own box.  But please, please wear your pearls.  If they are stored for long periods of time without wear they will dry out.  Even though they don’t particularly like lying against your skin, they hate being ignored even more. When you notice a little bit of the silk string in between your pearls - it’s time for restringing - usually every year or so if you wear them all the time, or every two to three years with occasional wear.  Bring them to your trusted jeweler for this job.  Be sure you both agree on the number of pearls on your strand (count them and document it) and agree on knotting in between the pearls before they are sent to the stringer.  Knotting is very important.  They are not pop beads from the toy store.  If your necklace breaks maybe you’ll only lose one pearl rather than have all of them fly onto the floor.  Knotting ensures your pearls are protected.

Remember the pearls you see in a costume or fashion jewelry department are usually not real pearls (however, could be freshwater) but are made from plastic or some type of resin.  They are usually very well priced, mostly under $100.  Fashion pearl vendor, Carolee, is a good source of fashion pearl jewelry, especially wedding pearls.  They have a great selection worth looking at.

TAGS: pearls, Mikimoto, Carolee, freshwater pearl, Akoya

Why Do We Wear Jewelry?

Over the years of working in a fine jewelry department, I've learned that women have to justify why they might treat themselves to a piece of jewelry, even those who make a ton of dough.   Many women buy their own jewelry these days, but the reasons they buy haven't changed much since our mother's generation, when baubles were purchased by their husbands or lovers for mundane and mysterious reasons.

Our Mother's Generation.....

It’s Your Birthday!
It’s Our Anniversary!
Sex Other Than Missionary Position

Our Generation…..

It’s My Birthday!
It’s My Anniversary!
I’ve Had a Shitty Week (don't even think about having sex) and This Will Make Me Feel Better - NOTE:  Most Popular Reason.

Having assisted many women at my counter over the last 20 years, I learned a lot about why we adorn ourselves.  We started by wearing rocks around our necks and bones in our hair.  What did this say about us?  Let’s look at how jewelry has evolved over time:

Stone Ages:  8000-5000BC....Note Wilma's excellent example of rock jewelry.

Early Egyptian Age: 3000 - 500 BC...This should look familiar? I really hate to see myself coming and going every 5000 years....see 1990's bracelet below.

Middle Ages: 5th-15th Centuries.......Your crown is gorgeous - No your crown is the most beautiful - No your is - No yours is.

Renaissance: 15th-16th Centuries....Many layers of jewelry and clothes made it really difficult  to pee at those summer festivals.

Early Modern Ages:  1600-1800.....Hair Lockets - This was just a gross.  Was hair really all they had around?

Industrial Revolution:  1800-1900....Cameos were huge in popularity, but small enough to attach to your bazooms.

Art Deco:  1900-1945.....Now we're talking....beautiful in every way.

1940's:  Cocktail Rings......This was inspired by the Mommy Dearest collection...big enough to balance out those shoulder pads.

1950's......Bakelite Bangles -Always sounded like cookware to me but worth $$$ today!

1960's:  Elsa Peretti Bean Necklace.  My sister and I owned this piece.  I wish I knew where it was today.

1970's:  Lucite Jewelry...be careful you'll knock your eye out with this Skeletor limited edition.

1980's:  Diamond Tennis Bracelets.  Everyone had to have one.  Do not fall for ads that offer 5 carats for $99.  You are buying frozen spit.

1990's and on...David Yurman.  Although he started his business in the early 80's, Mr. Yurman became uber popular in the 90's and beyond, establishing the trend of designer and lifestyle aspirational jewelry.  However, see early Egyptian era for original design inspiration.  Lesson:  It's OK to be a jewelry hoarder because what's old will be new again.

TAGS: women, men, fashion, jewelry, gold

Kim Kardashian’s Unassuming 20.5 Carat Diamond Engagement Ring

Surprisingly, there are very few close-up photos of Kim and her ring.  With all the images out there of the Kardashian’s you would think they would be plastered everywhere.  I guess there would be more photos if we hung rings off our asses. Photo by Bauer-Griffin.com

Obviously Kim Kardashian needed a diamond that would balance out her badonkadonk, so that’s why her boyfriend, New Jersey Nets Kris Humphries, proposed to her with an emerald cut diamond engagement ring with a center stone weighing 16.5 carats and two side stones weighing 2 carats each, for a whopping 20.5 carat total weight.  According to People magazine, the diamonds are of the “highest quality," designed by celebrity jewelry designer, Lorraine Schwartz, and valued in the neighborhood of $2 million.  You might remember Lorraine Schwartz from my emeralds post.  She is responsible for Angelina Jolie’s gorgeous emerald earrings and ring. So Humphries, who pocketed $3.2 million for this past season for the Nets, totally ignored the two months salary rule for engagement rings. However, it was just reported that Humphries’ contract with the Nets runs out as soon as the NBA postseason is over, and he will become a free agent where he stands to be courted by other teams for big money. Alas, I wish I paid more attention in gym class.

This image is from People magazine, but I can’t be sure it’s really her ring.  Unless that arm and body are attached to her head, no one knows for sure…but it matches the description of her amazing diamond.  

Photo by Nick Saglimbeni

Why it Pays to Hook Up With Athletes…In Order of Size (diamond that is)…

Hilary Duff

Duff's 14 carat radiant cut diamond from hockey player Mike Comrie is worth an estimated $1 million. Great piece of ice.  

Photo Jeffrey Mayer/WireImage.com; Bobby Bank/WireImage.com

   

Khloe Kardashian

Lamar Odom gave the reality star a Vartan's Fine Jewelry 12.5-carat radiant-cut ring worth $850,000.  Do you think she’s jealous of her sister’s ring? 

 Photo Denise Truscello/WireImage.com

 

Carrie Underwood

Hockey player Mike Fisher gave Carrie this 12-carat diamond ring worth about $800,000 before proposing in December 2009.  Ice by Zamboni. 

Photo by Todd Williamson/WireImage.com

 

Keyshia Cole

The Cleveland Cavaliers' Daniele Gibson gave the singer a 9-carat round-cut Jason of Beverly Hills ring worth $800,000 during his New Year's proposal.  I'm not sure who this person even is, but in my book, she could just be famous for the ring (she is actually a singer).  

Photo Mark Sullivan/WireImage.com

 

Maria Sharapova

L.A. Laker Sasha Vujacic popped the question to the tennis star in October with an estimated 9-carat cushion-cut stone. The estimated cost: $250,000.  We could surmise that Keyshia’s 9 carat cushion cut diamond at $800,000 might be better quality than Sharapova’s 9 carat at $250,000. 

AP Photo/Evan Agostini

Karina Smirnoff 

 

The Dancing with the Stars  celebrity has an estimated 4.5 carat princess cut diamond, worth approximately $95,000 from fiancée, Detroit Tiger’s starting pitcher Brad Penny.  These stones are starting to get a little too small for my taste. 

 

Photo by Denise Truscello/WireImage.com 

Kendra Wilkinson

Hank Baskett gave his June 2009 bride a Bernie Robbins Fine Jewelers 2.25-carat princess-cut ring worth about $50,000.  What’s up with that?  Hank, here are three things to keep in mind when you have the smallest ring on the list:

She was a Playboy Playmate.

She shook her booty on Dancing with the Stars.

She had your gigantic baby.

      You should be ashamed of yourself…you need to upgrade this ring immediately. 
       
Photo by Byron Purvis/AdMedia

TAGS: Kardashian, engagement ring, Kris Humphries